Leopard Gecko Care Sheet
Housing
Leopard geckos can grow to about 20 cm long but can be smaller. Even so they can be housed in a 15 gallon aquarium. The substrate can be a variety of things. Even though sand is a very decorative substrate, paper towels and newspaper though are eaisly cleaned and unexpensive. They should have : some hiding places, a water bowl, and a feeding bowl.
Heating
Heating can be provided by undertank heatmats or heat lights, you should get the ones which produce more heat than light because leopard geckos are partly nocturnal. The heat should be regulated by a thernastat and the temperature should be 86°F (30°C) in the day, and 82°F (28°C) at night.
Shedding Skin
Leopard geckos every so often will shed their skin. They need humidity for when they're shedding their skin. (They need it anyway.) This should be provided by a piece of damp spagnam moss, soil e.t.c.. This should placed in a hiding spot. They will not eat when they are shedding their skin. Do not diturb them.
Fedding
Leopard Geckos should be fed on a main diet of crickets or mealworms and you can add the occasional wax worm. A supplement should be added once a week to the food. They should be fed about 4 food items 4 times a week for adults, and 4 every day for hatchlings. Hatchlings need their supplement twice a week.
Breeding
In a breeding enclousure there should be a hiding place with a couple of inches of damp soil. One male and a couple of females. Never keep 2 males together! When they have mated, the female will lay her eggs, in the soil. They then should be removed into an incubator, with some wet vermiculate on the bottom. The sex of the egg is not determined at mating, if you want males hatch them at 90 - 92°F (32 - 33°C) and females at 82°F (28°C). Do not keep males at a constant 90 - 92°F (32 - 33°C) otherwise it will kill the eggs.